March 18th, 2007

Using cell phones as a baby monitor

Fisher Price Sounds ’n LightsBaby monitors can be useful, but most have their issues. Of course, I’m saying this based on our experience with some monitors we tried about 7 years ago, so I suppose they may have improved in some ways. We tried a few, which had problems like excessive interference, lack of AC adapter or rechargeable batteries, reception range much less than advertised, etc.

We settled on one, which we’ve been reasonably happy with ever since (enough so that we used it for all 3 of our kids, and in 4 different houses [our old and new houses, and two friends’ houses]): Fisher Price Sounds ’n Lights (pictured at right).

However, the range was not always good enough. Sometimes we’d be a little bit too far from the transmitter, and we’d hear an awful lot of static. If we were just barely too far, then we could just turn down the volume to quiet the static, and still hear if/when the baby cried. But, for those times when the baby monitor was not adequate, I figured out a trick:

I could call my cell phone from the house phone, put the house phone outside the baby’s door, and carry my cell phone with me. Then, periodically, I’d pick up my cell phone and make sure the baby wasn’t crying. Since it was usually night time or weekends when I used this, I didn’t waste my cellular plan minutes.

Over the years, I made a few little tweaks to this procedure, and learned a few lessons. Here are a few tips, from my experience:

- Call mobile to mobile. If your cellular plan, and your spouse’s, both have unlimited mobile-to-mobile minutes, then leave one of your phones by the door, and carry the other one with you.

- Call FROM landline TO cell phone. If you’re doing landline to cell phone, always make the call from the landline, so if the call gets disconnected for any reason, the phone does not end up making that loud, evil, phone-off-the-hook sound.

- Make some noise. If you have some kind of noise in the house, like a TV/radio on somewhere, then it’s easier to verify that your connection is still valid. If the house is completely quiet, and you listen through your cell phone, you’ll just hear quiet, and may question whether you’d actually hear the baby crying.

- Use speakerphone. If possible, put your cell phone on speakerphone. If not, at least turn up the volume all the way, so you’re more likely to hear the baby crying/smoke detector/etc., without having to repeatedly hold the phone to your ear.

- Mute your cell phone. The point is to be able to listen for your baby, not communicate both ways.

- Lock the keypad. You don’t want to accidentally hang up the call or anything. If the connection does get dropped, you have to run back and call from phone to phone again.

MOST IMPORTANTLY:

- Don’t go too far away! This tip is to enable you to go beyond the reach of your baby monitor, but not to the grocery store!

Never leave your child(ren) alone in the house, without at least being nearby. The point is so you can go to the opposite corner of a big house, out in the back yard, or maybe to your closest neighbor’s house, for a limited time. In these situations, you can run to your baby’s aid if the need should arise, within seconds.

If you decide to make a late-night beer run… well, isn’t it a well-known fact that most accidents happen within a mile or two of your home? What if the one time you leave your baby alone in the house, some moron doesn’t stop at the stop sign a few blocks down? Or if, somehow, the house catches on fire? Or if someone gains unauthorized entry to the house (burglar, kidnapper, etc. likelihood may vary depending on your neighborhood, but the risk is there, particularly if you are not in the house). These are the scenarios that always went through my mind, and always kept me close to home.

I’m not sure what actually constitutes criminally neglecting your children, but I don’t believe what I’ve described here is it. I think driving away seems like a logical place to draw the line, if one needs to be drawn in this regard, and that is something I have not done.

October 9th, 2006

Garmin eTrex GPS - Active Track vs. Saved Tracks

I’ve got a Garmin eTrex GPS receiver — one of the cheapest, simplest units I could find, and I’ve been using it to record the routes that I drive for about a year now.

Previously, I would turn the GPS on, wait for it to find satellites and be ready, then make my trip. iI have the track recording feature on, recording every ~54ft or so (some decimal fraction of a mile.. I guess that would be 0.01 miles). Eventually, when the “active track” log was getting full (since it shows percentage full), I would download the data to my computer and save in two formats (to be safe): G7T (because i was using the program, G7ToWin), and GPX (because Google Earth can read that). Those data files contained coordinates and time at each 0.01 mile point. So, given the right parser, I can analyze those files later, to gather stats on my trips from one point to another.

What I discovered recently, though, is that a recent change in my track recording procedure was flawed. When I import my GPX file into Google Earth, it draws the active track, which may be a combination of 5-15 different actual trips, recorded on different days, etc. It reads it as just 1 track, and the playback feature in Google Earth is not very configurable, so I had to start with the very first point in the track, and play until the point I cared about. Also, I kept filling up my active track log, because I procrastinated downloading.

So, I tried using the ‘Save Track’ feature in the GPS. At the beginning of each trip, I would clear the active track log, resetting the space usage to 0%. Then, when I reached my destination, I would save the track, which was (in theory) associating all of that data with a named track. Then, next time I drove, I would reset the active track (but my saved one would still be there, saved), and record again. Then I’d save that when I reached the destination, etc. Eventually, when I ran out of saved track slots, I had to download them all, then delete them all from the GPS to clear it out.

The saved tracks provided separation between trips, so in Google Earth I could play back a single trip easily. But, apparently, saving the track only saves the location info, NOT that datetime stamps. That’s what I just learned the hard way… and that’s half of what I care about.

So, no more saving tracks for me, unless I specifically only care about location data, and timestamps don’t matter. Active tracks only. I have to just download every couple days, I guess. Stay on top of it. At least my data will be more useful to me, then.